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Old September 29th, 2012, 05:44 PM   #21
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I ordered the exhaust shield from motowheels. I will continue to put miles on the bike and see how it does. I will let you guys know if I start to have any problems.
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Old September 29th, 2012, 06:54 PM   #22
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I ordered the exhaust shield from motowheels. I will continue to put miles on the bike and see how it does. I will let you guys know if I start to have any problems.
Carbonvani???
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Old September 29th, 2012, 09:44 PM   #23
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Wrap exhaust! They tend to turn yellow under heat.
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Old September 30th, 2012, 04:29 AM   #24
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carbonvani???

cdt
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Old October 5th, 2012, 07:42 AM   #25
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I just recived my new RC-III CF Exhaust Collector guard, and the finish is perfect, and even has a reflective interior.
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File Type: jpg Exhaust Collector Guard top.jpg (80.0 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg Exhaust Collector Guard bottom.jpg (85.2 KB, 73 views)
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Old October 5th, 2012, 12:05 PM   #26
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How was the fit? Did the notch in the carbon cover align with the screw on the cylinder?
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Old October 5th, 2012, 12:13 PM   #27
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How was the fit? Did the notch in the carbon cover align with the screw on the cylinder?
I just recieved it, so I haven't tried the install. I have to remove the sensor, is that difficult? I got their rear hugger too. The only problem with it, is it is thinner then the stock palstic, so the the top screws bottomed out before securing it firmly. For only $131, if I have make some adjustments, I don't mind

Last edited by Trauma; October 7th, 2012 at 04:57 PM.
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Old October 5th, 2012, 03:44 PM   #28
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Its not hard but more difficult that it should be IMHO. Remove the right side mid fairing, unbolt the bracket holding in the ECU and then unplug the sensor. Do you have to do that.... I say yes because you are straining the components within the wire if you twist up the wire removing the sensor. I just bit the bullet and did it the right way. The sensor is a 17mm wrench that can easily get to the sensor from below the shield. I highly recommend removing the entire rear section to ensure that you get good views of the shields alignment with the exhaust. I am sure that others would say this is more work than it is worth but once again, it feels like the right thing to do. All it all, not hard , just time consuming.
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Old October 7th, 2012, 08:09 AM   #29
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Its not hard but more difficult that it should be IMHO. Remove the right side mid fairing, unbolt the bracket holding in the ECU and then unplug the sensor. Do you have to do that.... I say yes because you are straining the components within the wire if you twist up the wire removing the sensor. I just bit the bullet and did it the right way. The sensor is a 17mm wrench that can easily get to the sensor from below the shield. I highly recommend removing the entire rear section to ensure that you get good views of the shields alignment with the exhaust. I am sure that others would say this is more work than it is worth but once again, it feels like the right thing to do. All it all, not hard , just time consuming.
Mavic - I have removed the fairing, unplugged the sensor, removed the screws for the guard. I cannot however, get a 17mm open end wrench under the gurad and on the sensor. I have obviuosly removed the rear pegs, but do I have to remove the rear frame above the exhaust as well?
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Old October 7th, 2012, 08:56 AM   #30
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Yes if you really want to examine the fit as it makes things a whole lot easier. I use a 10" wobble extension on a 1/2drive T40 to get the bolts out of the lower rear subframe. I will get a picture of how I got my off the sensor and post in the next few minutes....

Ok Trauma, start by sitting on the sprocket side of the rear wheel, using a 9" or longer 17mm wrench, slide the wrench between the bends of the exhaust and put the wrench end onto the O2 sensor. There are multiple complete turns required to remove the sensor and thus my resistance to leave the wire attached.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1287.jpg (43.3 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1285.jpg (44.0 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1284.jpg (45.0 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1289.jpg (45.2 KB, 86 views)

Last edited by mavic; October 7th, 2012 at 09:14 AM. Reason: adding photos and more detail
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Old October 7th, 2012, 09:22 AM   #31
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Thanks!! Of course like an idiot I was trying to come in from the top, the wrench works fine from the bottom!
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Old October 7th, 2012, 10:54 AM   #32
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@mavic, that's good info. Would have hated to strip the body and cable ties .... again!
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Old October 7th, 2012, 10:58 AM   #33
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Yes if you really want to examine the fit as it makes things a whole lot easier. I use a 10" wobble extension on a 1/2drive T40 to get the bolts out of the lower rear subframe. I will get a picture of how I got my off the sensor and post in the next few minutes....

Ok Trauma, start by sitting on the sprocket side of the rear wheel, using a 9" or longer 17mm wrench, slide the wrench between the bends of the exhaust and put the wrench end onto the O2 sensor. There are multiple complete turns required to remove the sensor and thus my resistance to leave the wire attached.
Got the sensor out fine, but I still need to remove the 2 bolts on the subframe to raise it enough to slip the cover out/in.
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Old October 7th, 2012, 11:25 AM   #34
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I also had to take out the two side bolts and slide it up as well as back to get it out easier.
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Old October 7th, 2012, 11:50 AM   #35
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Shield 1.jpg Shield 2.jpg


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I also had to take out the two side bolts and slide it up as well as back to get it out easier.

Finished! Not bad for only $131. I hope I didn't "get what I paid for". I included a picture of my OEM, it looks like it qwas getting quite hot at one point. - adding, yes, I did have to remove the 2 rear and 2 side frame bolts, and have my daughter hold up the subframe while I switched the cover, not a big deal. Putting the side fairing (either side) back on is the part I hate.

Last edited by Trauma; October 7th, 2012 at 05:00 PM.
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Old October 13th, 2012, 02:52 PM   #36
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Trauma- How is it holding up to the heat?
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Old October 13th, 2012, 03:14 PM   #37
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Yes, and I actually think my seat is cooler. I have the comfort seat as well, which adds some insulation. I went for a 45 minute ride (sadly my longest todate, with work and all) and my arse (UK speak!) was fine. The only draw back, is I need shorter screws or washers for the back 2 screws of the shield, as it is thinner then the OEM. I have their 3 dash pieces and the rear hugger, also I have ordered the chain guard - they are every bit as good workmanship as my shock and clutch cover that are my only DP parts. He said he is making battery cover, but it's so hidden, I think that is overkill.

Last edited by Trauma; October 13th, 2012 at 07:46 PM.
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Old October 13th, 2012, 04:39 PM   #38
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Yes, and I actually think my seat is cooler. I have nthe comport seat, went for a 45 minute ride (sadly my longest with work and all) and my arse (UK speak!) was fine. The only draw back, is I need shorter screws or washers for the back 2, as it is thinner then the OEM. I have the 3 dash pices, the rear hugger, and have ordered the chain card - every bit as good workmanship as my shock and clutch cover that are my on;ly DP parts. He said he is making battery cover, but its so hidden, I think that is overkill.
????????
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Old October 13th, 2012, 04:56 PM   #39
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ROFL!!!
That means that the cover is not discoloring or otherwise damaged and he is ordering more parts due to the success of his part.
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Old October 13th, 2012, 06:01 PM   #40
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LOL, my interpreter! Pretty much what u sad- texting on iPhone5, keeps screwing up.
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