Drop the front or raise the rear?

falco · September 30th, 2012, 03:10 PM

I am getting the bike where I wanted (awesome), but I would like to speed up the left to right transition (similar to the 848), I felt the bike a bit lazy today, and I like when the bike just drops into the turns. Have any one drop the front or raise the rear? How much? Which one do I change? (Usually is the rear, but I am short and the bike has pretty good clearance)

Thanks guys,

Kam · September 30th, 2012, 03:20 PM

As part of suspension setup the bike was lowered at the rear.

falco · September 30th, 2012, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kam

As part of suspension setup the bike was lowered at the rear.

Well, that's based on the rider. If you want to speed up the drop of the bike coming into a turn, it can be accomplished by dropping the front or raising the rear (up to a point, too much can cause the rear to slip). Any way, if you lower the front, you can run into clearance issues based on the bike.

What I need to know, if anybody had drop the front or playing raising the rear (and how much). If I don't hear any feed back, I'll proceed to drop the front. It is DEFINATELY more work, but since I have shot legs, it always helps, and i let's you drag your knees (turning reference) sooner.

Zoenala · September 30th, 2012, 10:23 PM

I raised the rear when I replaced the Base shock with the Ohlins TTX. The eye to eye measurement on the base is 309mm and the Ohlins was delivered 314mm. Handling is very sweet on the road, no instability issues...I'll check it again on track in two weeks time. Major benefit is the ease of changing it.

Jarelj commented somewhere about lowering the front and rear and he disliked it and actually also ended up lifting the rear and being very satisfied about the change on the track.

HESSIAN · October 1st, 2012, 08:44 AM

Personally, I would drop the front exactly for the reasons you listed. It's actually not that much work to do, just need a buddy around for help lifting / holding the front while you loosen & tighten the triple clamp. You also shouldn't affect clearnace that much, as only a few millimeters up / down in fork height will make a big difference in rake / trail angles.

jarelj · October 1st, 2012, 05:00 PM

I lowered the front 3mm and am going to raise it back up, didn't help because its less stable on hard braking. Might put it back after I install the Ohlins fork cartridges, we'll see.

falco · October 1st, 2012, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HESSIAN

Personally, I would drop the front exactly for the reasons you listed. It's actually not that much work to do, just need a buddy around for help lifting / holding the front while you loosen & tighten the triple clamp. You also shouldn't affect clearnace that much, as only a few millimeters up / down in fork height will make a big difference in rake / trail angles.

Cool. Thanks

falco · October 1st, 2012, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jarelj

I lowered the front 3mm and am going to raise it back up, didn't help because its less stable on hard braking. Might put it back after I install the Ohlins fork cartridges, we'll see.

Good to know. Since the Panigale has such awesome brakes, I'm willing to trade a bit of it for agility.

Did you notice any difference on the handling after lowering the front? Dropping into the turns?

Thanks

jarelj · October 2nd, 2012, 03:46 AM

Turns in slightly quicker, not a huge difference. Didn't necessarily help with side-to-side transitions though.

Steve B · October 2nd, 2012, 05:02 AM

Mine's got the front lowered 3mm at the moment (8mm of tube above the triple). Just for experimenting/baselining to get a feel for how it responds to changes. Not a big difference really, as moving the fork a few mm doesn't really change the rake/trail very much - you can feel it, but it's not a big change. Typically, if you want to make the bike more flicky in transitions you'd think about raising the overall ride height, so leaving the front as-is and raising the rear would probably be more in line, or else raising both ends. Lowering the RH overall will increase stability on the other hand, and reduce front/rear weight transfer under acceleration and braking.

TheFrog · October 2nd, 2012, 05:28 AM

At my last track day, ProPulsion was there so I had Jamie have a go at my setup after every heat based on my feedback.
I liked the experience because I had the luxury to turn off my engineer hamster and let my artist rider take over.

The result was pretty far off of what I would have looked for and the bike is now incredible, flickable and stable. That being said, if your're not 5'5" and 140 lbs, my settings shouldn't mean anything to you.

The stock components are still sub-par for the rest of the artillery but it does feel like it's setup at the very best of its capacity and inspired me to crack it open like never before.

Sag is set at 27 mm front and rear.
Front is lowered. Fork tubes (including caps are out by 13 mm from top of clamp)
Rear is set to progressive and height is stock.

I left it like this for commuting and it's perfect.

September 30th, 2012, 03:10 PM	#1
falco Senior Member Joined: Aug 2012 From: Lake Forest Posts: 124 Thanks: 2 I Ride: Duc 1199 Base w/ABS Tricolore	Drop the front or raise the rear? I am getting the bike where I wanted (awesome), but I would like to speed up the left to right transition (similar to the 848), I felt the bike a bit lazy today, and I like when the bike just drops into the turns. Have any one drop the front or raise the rear? How much? Which one do I change? (Usually is the rear, but I am short and the bike has pretty good clearance) Thanks guys,

October 1st, 2012, 08:44 AM	#5
HESSIAN Member Joined: Sep 2012 From: USA Posts: 35 Thanks: 0 I Ride: Street '12 1199S/ABS. Track '12 1199S/ABS.	Suspension change Personally, I would drop the front exactly for the reasons you listed. It's actually not that much work to do, just need a buddy around for help lifting / holding the front while you loosen & tighten the triple clamp. You also shouldn't affect clearnace that much, as only a few millimeters up / down in fork height will make a big difference in rake / trail angles.

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September 30th, 2012, 03:20 PM	#2
Kam Senior Member Joined: Jul 2012 From: ... Posts: 138 Thanks: 12	As part of suspension setup the bike was lowered at the rear.

September 30th, 2012, 10:23 PM	#4
Zoenala Member Joined: May 2012 From: South Africa Posts: 59 Thanks: 5 I Ride: 1199ABS	I raised the rear when I replaced the Base shock with the Ohlins TTX. The eye to eye measurement on the base is 309mm and the Ohlins was delivered 314mm. Handling is very sweet on the road, no instability issues...I'll check it again on track in two weeks time. Major benefit is the ease of changing it. Jarelj commented somewhere about lowering the front and rear and he disliked it and actually also ended up lifting the rear and being very satisfied about the change on the track.

October 1st, 2012, 05:00 PM	#6
jarelj Senior Member Joined: Jul 2012 From: Omaha, NE USA Posts: 347 Thanks: 34 I Ride: 1199 Panigale	I lowered the front 3mm and am going to raise it back up, didn't help because its less stable on hard braking. Might put it back after I install the Ohlins fork cartridges, we'll see.

October 2nd, 2012, 03:46 AM	#9
jarelj Senior Member Joined: Jul 2012 From: Omaha, NE USA Posts: 347 Thanks: 34 I Ride: 1199 Panigale	Turns in slightly quicker, not a huge difference. Didn't necessarily help with side-to-side transitions though.

October 2nd, 2012, 05:02 AM	#10
Steve B Senior Member Joined: Jan 2012 From: East TN Posts: 314 Thanks: 34	Mine's got the front lowered 3mm at the moment (8mm of tube above the triple). Just for experimenting/baselining to get a feel for how it responds to changes. Not a big difference really, as moving the fork a few mm doesn't really change the rake/trail very much - you can feel it, but it's not a big change. Typically, if you want to make the bike more flicky in transitions you'd think about raising the overall ride height, so leaving the front as-is and raising the rear would probably be more in line, or else raising both ends. Lowering the RH overall will increase stability on the other hand, and reduce front/rear weight transfer under acceleration and braking.

October 2nd, 2012, 05:28 AM	#11
TheFrog Member Joined: Apr 2012 From: Montreal Posts: 51 Thanks: 1 I Ride: 1199 and Monster	At my last track day, ProPulsion was there so I had Jamie have a go at my setup after every heat based on my feedback. I liked the experience because I had the luxury to turn off my engineer hamster and let my artist rider take over. The result was pretty far off of what I would have looked for and the bike is now incredible, flickable and stable. That being said, if your're not 5'5" and 140 lbs, my settings shouldn't mean anything to you. The stock components are still sub-par for the rest of the artillery but it does feel like it's setup at the very best of its capacity and inspired me to crack it open like never before. Sag is set at 27 mm front and rear. Front is lowered. Fork tubes (including caps are out by 13 mm from top of clamp) Rear is set to progressive and height is stock. I left it like this for commuting and it's perfect.