SSDriver

Ok so I switched my rear shock linkage from "F"(flat) to "P"(progressive) today and shot a few photo's. The rear suspension is still stiff but way better. I can actually feel the rear suspension moving now. My afternoon ride was much more enjoyable and the rear doesn't bounce sideways in bumpy turns.

Tools used:
8mm Socket
13mm Wrench
4mm Allen key
8mm Allen Socket
(2) 16" Pry Bars from harbor freight or 7/16" Rods
(2) Jack Stands
Wheel Bearing Grease

OK first thing I did was remove the lower fairings on both side's. Its not really necessary but I did it anyways just because they get really really close to the lifting points where your inserting the pry-bars/rods to lift the bike. Refer to manual to remove lower fairings.

Next I placed one pry-bar inside the large hole right in front of the rearset(right side) and placed a jack-stand under it. The bike was not lifted at all at this point. I then straitened the bike, made it level and placed the other pry-bar on the other side of the bike(left) with a jack stand under it. This holds the bike level and upright. I then moved from side to side lifting the pry-bar while raising the jack-stand and letting it lock into position. This slowly lifted the tire in the rear off of the floor. If you have some other sort of stand that will lift the bike while letting the rear tire hang go ahead and use that instead.


I recommend that you remove your rear fender using the 4mm allen key(I could not get my allen socket to fit under the exhaust). There are 4 bolts, 2 on top and 1 on each side. I didn't remove the rear fender at first and ended up doing it later to give me more room to rotate the linkage.

Remove Bolt A(swing arm push rod pivot bolt) using the 8mm socket and 13mm wrench for the nut on the back side. The rear tire will need to be supported as it will want to hang loose. And lift the push rod out of the linkage.

Now remove Bolt B(swing arm push rod retaining bolt) with an 8mm socket.



I put the push rod bolt inside the push rod to twist it loose so I wouldn't make marks with pliers.

You will notice there is a slot where the push rod retaining bolt(B) was. You have to unthread (counter clockwise) the push rod a little over an inch to the second slot. This was very tight to unscrew. Now reinsert the retaining bolt and leave it loose. This will allow it to twist and line up later when putting it back together.


Next is to pop out the little bracket(indicator block) that has the arrow pointing down to "F" and flip it 180* so the arrow now points up to "P". It will now block the original hole that the push rod bolt was in.

You are now going to place the push rod ball joint into the linkage. It will now go into the hole on the linkage that is closer to the front. I had to lift he bike a little and move the rear tire up/down to get the ball joint and linkage holes to line up. It would definitely make it easier to have two people.

Reinsert the push rod bolt(A) with grease and tighten up the nut on the back side. IMPORTANT: you now must tighten up the retaining bolt(B).

When its done it should now look like this. Notice we are now using the front hole(was covered by the indicator block) and the push rod is threaded out further.


Lower bike one side at a time from the jack stands and reinstall rear fender and lower fairings.

Rhino

Nice job mate.

Great 'how to'.

Rhino

Was just looking at one of the production shots of the bike which is set to progressive.

They have the linkage the other way around, so the bolt is on the bottom, and the thread is towards the rear of the bike.

Can't imagine it makes a difference though, just looks maybe.

bradp51

Got me wondering how mine was so just ran out to the bike and mine which is how it came from Fraser's in Sydney is exactly like the photo above. The photo of the original poster that is not the photo rhino put in.

So the linkage you saw is not how they are delivering them. just glad mine came set at P and not F.

SSDriver

Length is the same, doesn't matter. I've seen two other bike's set up the same way I have it. It's just a push rod that you change the length on. The import thing is that the push rod is going to the correct hole (forward hole) on the linkage.

gman74

Mine is the same as yours. (with the threads towards the front.)
Very nice write up.
I just completed my set up. I did the job before I saw your post. Here are a few things I did differently in case some people are missing some of your tools. (jack stands)
First put the bike on Pitbull stands. Front and back.
I placed a shop manual under the rear wheel so the swing arm wouldn't drop.
Then I placed a hydraulic jack under the exhaust right about where the bottom cover is and a piece of wood so I would get stability and guard from damaging the cover.
I took slight tension on the jack and loosened the control rod nut and bolt.
Took out the left side hugger screw.
Popped out the control rod and adjusted to the next setting.
Raised and/or lowered the jack to align the control rod bolt hole.
Tightened everything down and put the passenger pegs on.
Took the misses for a ride and brought her home after 20mins or so.
She said the seat is like a rock, lol. Seems she might need a comfort seat too!

As for me, I'm impressed how a quick adjustment could change the comfort of the ride. I wanted to hang myself after riding the roads around here, pot holes and crap pavement. Now the ride seems so forgiving. A must for all riding the local streets.

Gunny Fitz

Super job spelling it out for everyone with list of tools a d photos buddy. There better not be another newbie post asking about this issue or procedure anymore after such detailed work that is on here now!
Newbies should use the search engine for all its worth here before putting up another request for info!
Really good thread my friend!!

TheFrog

Amen, brother! I hope more people read this part.

Good report, both of you. Thanks

mr anderson

just finished doing this also. easy job, used 2 jack stands and the rear tire stand for support and to jack up the rear end to put the bike on the stands via (2) 8" 3/8" extensions. FYI mine spun freely without effort.

LarryG

Thanks for posting and for including the pics on the step by step

Rhino

Flipped my linkage over the other day. It was giving me the shits

Bike feels NICE! compared to the 848!

Xbox

Its not the suspension that loosening you up ..... its the power

iiiofiv

yikes!

capnjack52

SSDriver & gman74: Presuming you used a torque wrench, what torque values did you use for reassembly? TIA

cooljam7

You do not need to go through all that. All you need is a cheapy automotive jack. Simply remove the rear hugger, pre loosen the F/P bolt and nut, and then remove the load off the spring by increasing jack height until you can spin the loosened bolt by hand. See my picture below.



As for the torque values, I measured and used 5 ft lbs on the pinch bolt screw and 24 ft lbs on two bolts depicted below. You do not need to loosen the torx bolt as it pivots anyway.



This method can be done with the bike sitting on the ground on the side stand. I only had my pitbull stand in place because I was doing several jobs at once. You also do not need a long wrench to remove the buried bolt for the other end of the linkage.

This job can be done in 15 minutes.

Attached Images

	Rear suspension.jpg (91.5 KB, 688 views)
	Suspension.jpg (89.7 KB, 667 views)

cooljam7

Was about to post a tutorial on how to do this over on 1199forums, since I couldnt find good info on it elsewhere, but I never found the time.

I'm glad someone else did

Grey Goose

Great thread, thanks to all. Just to be clear, FLAT is the choice for the track, right?

zvez

per the manual flat is the choice for all riding except two up. But most everyone is running P now I think. The suspension guy suggested after he sorted my suspension at the last track day I might want to give FLAT a try again for the street.

Gunny Fitz

Once I go pro there's no turning back! Lol

HarmonyJim

What about the ride height? By changing the rod length and moving the pivot hole, the ride height will change. In order to get it exactly where it was, what is the number of exposed threads (or the exact length of the threads) so that we get the ride height perfect (or at least at stock specs)? I bought 2-step softer rear spring from Dan Kyle, and on the F setting it is still too stiff. Dan suggested I move it to P as a next step. Hopefully this will do the trick, or next up is shock revalving (compression circuits) and possibly softer still on the rear spring (I weigh 190# plus gear). Thanks in advance for the advise.